By: summitclimb.com
The first recorded ascent of Mount Mercedario was in 1934 by Swiss geologist and cartographer Matthias Zurbriggen, who also made the first ascent of Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas. He climbed solo and reached the summit via the northwest ridge, now known as the Zurbriggen route. This route remains the most popular and relatively easy route for climbers.
In 1954, a group of Polish climbers made the first ascent of Mount Mercedario via the southeast ridge, which is now known as the Polish route. This route is considered to be more technically challenging than the Zurbriggen route, with steep sections and exposed ridges. It was not until 1965 that the first female ascent was made by a team of Argentine women.
In the 1980s, Mount Mercedario became a popular climbing destination as more climbers from around the world were drawn to its remote and rugged beauty. In 1984, a team of Italian climbers made the first winter ascent of the mountain, marking a significant achievement in mountaineering history.
In 1996, tragedy struck when a group of Argentine climbers attempted to reach the summit of Mount Mercedario via a new route on the south face. The team, led by Roberto Ibáñez, encountered bad weather and were stranded on the mountain for several days. Sadly, four members of the team lost their lives during the descent. This tragedy brought attention to the dangers and challenges of climbing in such a remote and harsh environment.
Despite the dangers, Mount Mercedario continues to attract climbers from all over the world. In 2000, a British team made the first ascent of a new route on the east face, which is now known as the British route. This route is considered to be one of the most difficult and technical routes on the mountain, with sections of steep ice and rock.
Attempts to break speed records on Mount Mercedario have also gained attention in recent years. In 2016, Argentinian climber Andrés Marin and Swedish climber Andreas Fransson completed the fastest known time for a round-trip ascent, reaching the summit in just under 24 hours.
Mount Mercedario’s popularity as a climbing destination continues to grow, with climbers looking to challenge themselves and experience the breathtaking views from its summit. However, the mountain’s remoteness and unpredictable weather continue to make it a challenging and dangerous climb. Proper preparation, training, and experienced guides are crucial for a safe and successful ascent.
The history of climbing Mount Mercedario is filled with courage, determination, and a deep appreciation for the beauty and power of nature. As more climbers add their own stories to this history, Mount Mercedario will continue to hold a special place in the hearts of all those who have conquered its summit.
Some Interesting Facts About This Mountain
1. Difficult to Climb
Despite being a non-technical climb, Mount Mercedario is not an easy mountain to conquer. Its remote location and harsh weather conditions make it a challenging feat even for experienced mountaineers. The ascent to the summit involves traversing steep snowfields, navigating crevasses, and dealing with high altitude, making it a test of physical and mental strength.
After climbing Mount Mercedario you can climb Lobuche peak, Island Peak, Mera Peak and other trekking peak. After trekking peak you qualify for Everest expedition.
2. Natural Beauty
Mount Mercedario is located in the Barreal region of the province of San Juan, known for its stunning natural beauty. The mountain is surrounded by pristine lakes, glaciers, and valleys, making it a paradise for nature lovers. The diverse flora and fauna found here include cacti, lizards, guanacos, and condors, adding to the region’s charm.
3. Preservation Efforts
In recent years, conservation efforts have been made to preserve the natural beauty of Mount Mercedario and its surroundings. The government of San Juan has designated the area a Natural Protected Area, and strict regulations have been put in place to safeguard the environment. This has led to a decrease in the number of climbers allowed on the mountain each year to preserve its pristine condition.
Published By: Aize Perez
